Report 31st May 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 01 June 2019 10:31

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 31/05/2019

An update for the last day in May.

There have been only minor changes to the conditions in the high mountain. The weather front last Tuesday put down about 30cms of snow at 3500m. Apart from near the Pointe Helbronner, snowshoes are recommended in order to reach the routes, (and especially for the way back.)  

In the mid mountain, the snow is slowly going but is still restricting hiking. For those wishing to do the trails still under snow, you will need a good basis in mountain craft, (including navigation skills) and foresee crampons, ice axe and snowshoes.

The huts, both high and mid mountain, are beginning to open for the summer season and so their approaches are slowly becoming easier.  

Tour Sector

The Albert 1er hut opens on the 1^st June. The approach is by the moraine, alpinists only as there is still too much snow for hikers.  The moraine is free of snow up to 2200m but one can start using skis a little lower. The ski conditions higher up merit the hour of carrying them. There is a walking track towards the Col Supérieur du Tour, and there was a party on the Migot Spur on Friday, (ski approach, no further info.)

Argentière Sector

The lifts and huts are due to open on the 15th June. It is possible to start using skis at around 1700m on the Pierre à Ric (the track has not yet been cleared of snow). The Couturier was done on 30/05. The ski classics in the area look to be feasible, (Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu, Col du Tour Noir, Col des Cristaux, Courtes NE face.)  No recent information about the mixed routes, which are still very dry.

Talèfre Sector (hut open)

Little change since the last update. The approach is still by Egralets, start early and take care on the moraine at the foot of the ladders.  The Whymper on the Verte, the normal routes on the Droites and Courtes and the Pointe Isabelle are in condition. There is still a lot of snow on the ridge routes.

Aiguille du Midi

Here also there is little change in conditions. Snowshoes or skis not strictly necessary for routes close to the cable car station.

The Triangle du Tacul is popular, (Contamine-Negri, Contamine-Grisolle, Contamine-Mazeaud, no further info; Chéré reported to be in good condition).

The normal route on the Tacul is tracked both on foot and by ski. The usual “normal route” on the Maudit is blocked by an impressive serac barrier. Is was done on Friday, by some technical climbing to the left of the face, (a small mixed gully between the rocks.)  Another solution could be to go via the E ridge, (exit of the Kufner).  In all cases, an ascent is going to be much harder and longer than usual, 2 axes recommended.

No problems for the Cosmiques Ridge and the Pointes Lachenal.

The Mallory Porter was skied on 30/05 but has not been climbed recently.  The Eugster Diagonale was climbed on 31/05.

The rock routes still have a lot of snow on the ledges and terraces.  However, since Thursday, there have been some parties on the Cosmiques Spur and with the rise in temperature, the S faces (Aiguille du Midi, Lachenal), are expected to come into condition soon.

Helbronner Sector

The classics in this sector are in good condition, with tracks to the starts of Dent du Géant, Marbrées and Aiguille d'Entrêves traverses, Aiguille de Toule and Tour Ronde. Snowshoes or skis are not essential but may be useful on the way back.

Good conditions for the N Face and the Gervasutti Couloir on the Tour Ronde. However, the normal “winter” route is not recommended, (unstable boulders), one needs to go via the Col Freshfield.

The Kuffner has been done, no further info.

There have been some parties on the Dent du Géant, no further info, (still with snow.)  There has been nobody recently on the Rochefort Ridge, which looks to be feasible.  

The snow is slowly clearing from the satellite rock climbs. It is still a bit too early for the Diable Ridge.  

Grands-Mulets

Generally good conditions.

The Jonction still goes on ski. To repeat, an early start to go up to the hut is essential and think about spending a second night on the way down, if already late.

The N ridge of the Dôme is in good condition and popular, (about 50 people on Friday morning.)

The N face has been skied, both on the right and left sides.

Dômes de Miage Sector

Spring conditions here also, skis or snowshoes recommended.

The hut approach is by the Mauvais Pas and the glacier. The summer path is not feasible.  

The N faces now have a snow cover, (i.e. white not grey). There was a party on the Lex Blanche on Friday and another foreseen for the Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête on Saturday, no further info.

The Dômes traverse and the Aiguille de la Bérangère are in good condition.  

Hiking

The snow is slowly going but the trails at altitude, including the multi day routes, are not yet feasible.  This is true for the Tour du Mont Blanc, which still has a lot of snow, (e.g. Col du Bonhomme is still being skied )

Some suggestions: Aiguillette des Houches, Bellachat hut, (there and back from Chamonix), Alpage de Blaitière, Montenvers via the Mottets snack bar (open), Tête de Prapator via the Chapeau chalet (open,) Aiguillette des Posettes, Loriaz chalet.

Report 23 May 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 25 May 2019 11:35

Some information for this weekend.

We find ourselves in two seasons, Spring in the valley and Winter/Spring up in the mountains, a situation typical for Chamonix in May.  Quite a lot of snow fell this winter at mid altitudes which, together with the very little sunshine and cooler than average temperatures in April and May, means the snow is taking a long time to disappear.  

For example, it is still possible to ski in the Berard Valley, with the snow down to 15 minutes above the cascade.

This makes things awkward for hikers as there is still a lot of snow above 1700/2000m. This is not just snow patches but rather whole valleys remain under snow making paths and waymarks invisible.   There is often a need to break trail in deep snow with also a danger of slipping/falling in places.  The mountain lakes are not yet accessible and remain under snow, as are the Grand Balcon paths

.

Little has changed since the update of May 10th. Below is a selection of recommended hikes with great views.

- Lac Vert

- Alpage de Charousse

- Chalets de Chailloux (snow below the Aiguillette des Houches)

- Alpage de Blaitière Dessous

- Rocher des Mottets (possible to continue up to Montenvers.  Do not go up to Montenvers by the Caillet path.)  

- Buvette du Chapeau and viewpoint.

- Petits Balcons north and south, Buvette de la Floria (open),

- Chalets de Loriaz from Le Couteray (snow on leaving the forest)

- Aiguillette des Posettes starting from Tré le Champ.

Do not forget to check on the Chamoniarde site for which paths have been closed  (avis de fermeture e) and especially those in the Flegere sector, (secteur Flégère ).

Tour du Mont Blanc

As is normal for this time of the year, it is still too early for hiking.  There is no evidence of hikers in the Chapieu valley yet, only skiers

In the high mountain we are between seasons, most of the lifts and huts are closed.   There is too much snow unless using snowshoes or skis, which then need carried when lower down . The weather windows have been rare and often brief.  The good news is that the snow that fell last weekend, (without wind and between 50 and 70cm depending on the altitude) has stuck to the ice and rock, leading to a start in the improvement in conditions for mixed routes.

Tour Sector:  The approach to the Albert 1er hut is by the moraine path.  The upper part of the Migot Spur is dry and the Forbes Ridge has a lot of snow since the last storm.  The Aiguille du Tour, Tete Blanche etc. are feasible.

Argentière Sector

- Aiguille d'Argentière, Glacier du Milieu has ski tracks, (no more info.)  

- Col des Cristaux, NE Face of the Courtes look to be skiable.

- Couturier does not appear to have any recent tracks.

Couvercle  Sector (hut open )

To reach the hut, it is no longer feasible to go by the Pierre à Bérenger and the CentralCouloir. The new approach, (shared with the Charpoua hut) crosses too many gullies which have not purged yet. All that remains is the Egralets route, which still has a lot of snow.  It would appear best to take a rounabout route to the left to reach the foot of the ladders.

Below is information taken from the hut Facebook site before the last storm, (no activity since, the faces and gullies are well purged) :

For the 2019 season: “the Couvercle hut will open on 1st June and close on 15th September.  The hut will be renovated to meet modern building standards and offer better conditions for the alpinistes and wardens and to make it more eco-friendly.  The work is due to start mid-September, assuming the planning permission is obtained."

Concerning the routes in this sector, the two main objectives are the Whymper on the Verte and the Pointe Isabella.  Conditions are OK with a good snow cover since the recent snowfalls.  The bergschrund on the Whymper is crossed on the true left, though it is starting to open up. For the Pointe Isabella, the crevasses are filled in.

Some parties on the Droites and the Courtes but there is a lot of snow high up and bare ice on the N faces.

Aiguille du Midi Sector (Cosmiques hut open):

- Cosmiques Arete, Pointes Lachenal, Triangle du Tacul (Chéré, Contamine-Mazeaud, Contamine-Grisolle): there are walking tracks in place.  Likewise, for the traverse and descent, (and ascent to the summit) of the normal route of the Tacul from the top of the Triangle.

- Normal route on the Tacul was done on skis, there and back, on 23/05 (no problems with the bergschrunds).

- Mallory Porter and Eugster Diagonal were climbed on23/05

- Vallée Blanche: Need to walk to reach the ladders or the ice cave, (see Montenvers webcams).   It is warming up, making the snow bridges weak. The Requin hut is open but will be closed from 29/05 to10/06.

Pointe Helbronner Sector

- Traverse of the Marbrées has been done, (on foot).

- Tour Ronde is popular:  Gervasutti Couloir, North face, descent by the Freshfield Col. The normal winter route is feasible.

- Good track to the Col d'Entrèves, (the traverse looks feasible.)

Mont Blanc

- The Trois Monts is still not being done.  A descent sized weather window is needed to work out the route to cross Mont Maudit. 

- good conditions by the Grands Mulets: From the tunnel one needs to carry the skis to just above the ancient Gare de la Para.  If not, one can use skis from the Plan de lAiguille.  As a reminder, one needs to start EARLY, in order to reach the hut, (risk of snow slides and the traverse of the Jonction is awkward when it warms up.)   The snow is sticking to the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter, (skied on 23/05.  There is still some bare ice, between 4 to10m according to the guides.)  The route by the Plateaux is also tracked, the danger from falling seracs is still there.  The N face has been skied on the true left in good conditions.  

- the Goûter hut opened on 24/05. The Tête Rousse opens on Monday, 27/05. The Bellevue cable car will open on 8/06 and the TMB on15/06. This early in the season, snowshoes are useful to reach the Tete Rousse.  Starting from Bionnassay is perhaps easier, (or 4x4 taxi to Bellevue.)  It is best to take the path by the Are chalets to reach the Nid d’Aigle.  (The Dérochoir has too much snow and the route following the railway track is dangerous.)

Conscrits Sector

The Mont Tondu, the traverse of the Dômes de Miage (the skiing ends just above the Armancette lake) and the Aiguille de la Bérangère (there and back from the hut,) are all in good condition. 

Before the latest snowfall, the upper part of the N faces, (Lex Blanche, Trè-la-Tête, Mettrier,) were bare ice.

Environment and Sustainability Panel

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Tuesday, 21 May 2019 21:31

In discussions during the AC gathering at Blencathra in November 2018 it became apparent that a number of members, including the President and President Elect, felt that the global issues of climate change, pollution in its many different forms and unsustainable tourism were too pressing for the Alpine Club not to be proactive in doing something about them. It was decided to set up a Panel, for ease of reference known as The Green Group, to take the matter forward and as a current V-P Rob Collister was asked to chair it.

Report 10th May 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 11 May 2019 06:59

Some information for mid-May:

Wednesday/Thursday’s weather front brought with it 50cms of new snow at 3000m and 30cms at 2500m.  There was a lot of wind giving rise to unstable conditions by the end of the day on Thursday and Friday, (risk of avalanche.)  

Bad weather with more snow is foreseen for Friday night and Saturday.

The Aiguille du Midi cable car, (ridge no longer equipped), Montenvers train, cable cabins to the ice cave and the Skyway Monte Bianco (but closed from 13 to 17 May) are the only lifts still open.

High Mountain

The Conscrits hut is now closed.  The huts still open are: Couvercle, Requin, Cosmiques, Torino, Grands Mulets.

Due to the bad weather there has not been much activity recently. Next week should be better.  Conditions for ski mountaineering and classic snow routes should be OK, (not too much ski carrying, crevasses filled in, etc,) but do not forget to check the avalanche risk.  Concerning the mixed routes, it is not known if conditions have improved.  

Hiking

Down in the Chamonix valley it feels like spring or even summer.  However, up in the mountains, conditions remain wintery.

Due to so much snow, there is little chance that the footpaths above 2000m, (1800 for N facing,) will be feasible this spring.  Some sections of the classic trails are likely to remain awkward even at the beginning of summer, e.g.  Lac Blanc – Lac Cornu – Grands Balcons – Tour du Mont Blanc.

One can get an idea of the amount of snow by looking online at the Chamonix webcams.  Also, do not hesitate to get advice on what paths are feasible from the Chamoniarde (OHM) office. Be sensible in your choice of route and make sure you are properly equipped.

Mont Blanc Normal Route

The Goûter hut opens on the 24th May and the Tête Rousse hut on the 27^th May.  The Bellevue cable car opens on the 8th June and the Mont Blanc tramway on the 15^th June.  

The amount of snow at mid-altitudes makes the approach to the huts more difficult than normal but should not be a problem for fit, experienced alpinists.  

A new warden for the Nid Aigle hut is in the process of being appointed. The hut should be open at some time between 1st and 15^th June. The reservation system will be identical to that for the Tete Rousse and the Gouter, nominative, online, (50% of the places through resa web) and by telephone.  Proof of a reservation is needed to access the huts.    

As reported in previous bulletins, camping will be forbidden anywhere on the route, including the Tete Rousse.  Therefore, it is pointless carrying a tent.  As an alternative, communal tents, Himalayan base camp style with mattresses and blankets, (5 tents, each with 8 places i.e. 40 places total,) have been made available.  They can be reserved using the the Tete Rousse website. Full price is expected to be about 30€; usual reductions available.  

Miscellaneous

The road up to the Emosson dam is due to open soon.  However, there is work planned on the dam from 13th May for three weeks.  Hikers and skiers will be forbidden to go across the dam during this time.

Landing at the Bois du Bouchet para gliding site is forbidden by council order from 13th to 22nd May.  This is so that the area can be put back in order following the Musilac festival.  During this period, landing is allowed at the Bois du Bouchet hang gliding site

What do the Kuffner Arete, Innominata Ridge, Charlotte Road, and Ryan Reynolds all have in common?

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 10 May 2019 13:02

Friday 10^th May saw the release of the latest Pokémon film.  

When the Club was approached during the autumn of 2017 by the makers of this film, “Pokémon: Detective Pikachu”, to request the use of the outside façade of 55 Charlotte Road as part of the filming location, we of course said yes as the request came with a contract and with the contract came their fee.  

Dave (Smiler) Cuthbertson

Details

Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Tuesday, 07 May 2019 09:30

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Dave (Smiler) Cuthbertson.

He died on the 2nd May after a short illness. He joined the Alpine Club in 1971 as an ACG member and was a past President of the Climbers' Club. 

Funeral details will be announced once known.

Members can log in to submit their tributes or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

Report 4th May 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 04 May 2019 20:24

Mountain Conditions 04/05/2019

A quick update for this gap in the bad weather:

Since Thursday the following amount of fresh snow has been reported:

- about 50 cm at the Cosmiques, (slightly wind affected.)

- 15 cm at Grands-Mulets, no wind  

- 30 cm at the Conscrits hut

More snow is foreseen this weekend.

The Grands Montets ski area closes on Sunday evening, (05/05). The Argentière hut closed on the 1st May.  There is still a lot of ski touring potential in this sector, (Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière, Col du Tour Noir, Col d'Argentière). Conditions are slowly improving for the steep skiing, (couloir Barbey, col des Cristaux, NE des Courtes) and the mixed routes. The Albert 1er and Trient huts are also closed.

Though there are good conditions in the Talèfre area, the approach to the Couvercle hut is now awkward. The moraine is dangerous and there is a slab to climb in the central gullly, the Pierre à Béranger has no snow and the route by the ladders has too much snow.  More info in the cahier de course, (route book).

The rope protected “Z” path from the Aig du Midi has been dismantled.  The Valley Blanche is still OK, (the snow bridges, especially in the lower part, need care.)  There is walking in some places on the Mer de Glace, as well as for 5 mins to reach the ice cave.  The Brèche Puiseux, couloir du Capucin and the col du Tacul, there and back, are still being done.

The Glacier Rond (rope useful at the start), Cosmiques couloir and the Col du Plan are being skied regularly.  The Mallory-Porter has not been climbed recently.

The Plan de l'Aiguille hut opened on the 1st May. The Grands Mulets hut is due to be very popular for people doing Mont Blanc over the next few days.  A serac fall crossed the track at the Petit Plateau on 1^st May.  There is still an ice pitch, (60m, 6 ice screws useful) followed by a section of ice and snow for 300m, (short roping) on the N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter.  The snow appears to be stable but check when there!

On the approach to the Conscrits hut, (closes 11th May), one can start skinning on leaving the forest, (Nant du Tour).  The snow appears to be sticking to the N faces in this sector. The traverse of the Domes de Miage is still in condition.  On the descent the skiing now ends above the lake.

Ski touring is still possible in the Col d'Encrenaz area from the Col des Montets or the Berard valley, (Mont Buet, col de Salenton, col de Beugeant...).

Not much has changed for hiking. There is still a lot of snow above 1800m.  The feasible hikes remain the same as in the last update.  The footbridge at Merlet is now in place. Think about checking the list of officially closed paths, (liste) 

Alpine Club, South East Mini Meet

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Tuesday, 30 April 2019 08:32

Sunday 14^th April 2019 - Harrisons Rocks 

The Club is looking to organise a mini meet program in the SE of England, and so provide an opportunity for members to get to know each other and so potentially build contacts for future climbing trips.  Also, simply a chance to just get out and have a good time.

AC Tatra Meet 2020

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Sunday, 28 April 2019 11:57

After two successful winter trips to the Tatra Mountains, I would like to invite the Alpine Club members to visit those small but interesting mountains once again in 2020. However, this time I would like to make a slight change to the character and objective of the meet… 

Report 26th April 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 26 April 2019 21:25

Some information for this weekend:

Following on from the recent Foehn winds there was fresh snow down to the valley floor last night, (Thursday).  On Friday morning there was : 

- 20 cm at the Grands Mulets hut (wind affected)  

- between 30 and 60 cms of accumulated snow at the Cosmiques hut  

- 20-30 cm at the Plan de l'Aiguille

- 25 cm at the Argentière hut

The weekend’s forecast is for wet weather, including the possibility of more snow.

The snow is melting quickly low down but remains above 1500m (south facing and 1700m, (north facing.)   

Most of the lifts are now closed, (Les Houches, Brévent, Flégère, Balme-Vallorcine). Only the Grands-Montets (closed on 2nd +3rd May and then closes definitively on the 5th,) the Aig du Midi, Montenvers and the Skyway MonteBianco, (Italy) remain open.

Ski touring is accessible in the Argentière sector from Grands Montets, for example : Col du Passon to La Tour, Col du Chardonnet, Aiguille d'Argentière via the Glacier du Milieu (more information in the OHM route book), Col du Tour Noir, Col d’Argentière. Concerning the N faces, only the Col des Cristaux and the NE face of the Courtes. (large bergschrund) are skiable, though not from the summit.

The Valley Blanche and the Brèche Puiseux remain feasible, (the descent ridge from the Aig du Midi is still equipped.)  Be aware of crevasses concealed by the recent snow and snow bridges weakened by the recent warm winds.  It is still possible to ski almost to the foot of the stairs leading to the Montenvers (ice cave) lift.

As far as Mont Blanc is concerned, the Three Monts route is not yet OK, (avalanche risk and Mont Maudit is not in condition.)  The N ridge of the Dome du Gouter is also not in condition, (ice.)  The Plateaux route is the most feasible option. Skiing the N face by the usual ramp is not possible, instead take the true left side, (40m wall of ice, for excellent skiers only.) N.B: the Foehn wind together with the recent snowfall means there is a significant avalanche risk.

No major changes for the Tour, Talèfre and Dômes de Miage sectors since the last update of16^th April.

Some suggestions for ski tours which remain feasible and do not involve glaciers:

- Col de l'Encrenaz from (just below) the Col des Montets

- Bérard Valley (Beaugeant, Bérard, Salenton Cols and Mont Buet) from Le Buet (Walking for 15 mins to the Cascade buvette plus some walking sections after that.)

- Col de la Terrasse/ Cheval Blanc from the Emosson dam road, (closed still, some walking involved.)

For those still wanting to snowshoe, a possibility is to ascend the closed La Tour pistes to the Col du Balme and/or the Aiguillette des Posettes.

Spring has very much arrived in the valley and the trees are beginning to blossom.  However, appearances can be deceptive, many of the hiking trails are not yet in condition. 

Some suggestions for hikers are, (suitable footwear and poles needed for the higher paths) :

- Chalets d’Ayères from Servoz or Plaine Joux

- Chalet de Chailloux, there and back, from Flatière or Merlet

- Chalet du Cerro and its viewpoint

- Petit Balcon Sud : Gaillands - Les Praz / Les Tines. 

- Petit Balcon Nord between Chamonix and Argentière

- Chalet de la Floria, there and back, from Chamonix or Les Praz only (path free of snow).

- Chalet du Chapeau from Les Praz – Les Tines – Le Lavancher, there and back. 

- Buvette des Mottets from Les Bois (Filia path) or Les Planards (do not take the path for Montenvers via Caillet)

- Chalets de Loriaz

Check the feasibility of the paths at the Office de Haute Montagne and also for paths closed by council order,  (arrêtés de fermetures .) 

Report 16 April 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Tuesday, 16 April 2019 20:06

Information for the high and mid mountain during the Easter holidays:

Some of the ski areas are already closed (Les Houches, La Flégère, Vallorcine, Megève, Saint Gervais).

Areas still open are Balme/Le Tour, Brévent, Contamines (until 22/04) and Argentière/Lognan (until 01/05 then the weekend 4/5 May).  The Aiguille du Midi cable car and the Montenvers train remain open. More information on the CMB website.

Tour / Trient Sector

Not much has changed since the last update.  Access is either by the Balme chairlift and the Col des Autannes or from Lognan and the Col du Passon.

A bit of walking is necessary to reach Trient village.  All the cols are being done and are in condition. The Couloir de la Table is tracked, (the gully in the lower band is OK), as is normal route on the Aig du Tour, (by the E ridge and the col between the two summits.)  A party has done the Table ridge.

Some parties have traversed the Chardonnet, (up by the SE couloir and descent by the normal route.)

It is still just possible to ski all the way to La Tour, but expect some walking at the boardercross area soon.  

Argentière Sector

Depending on the chosen route one can get onto the Argentiere glacier by the return route (Passon, Chardonnet) or by the Col des Rachasses (Glacier du Milieu, Argentière hut, Col du Tour Noir etc).

- The Lognan hut closed on the 14 April.

- The N faces are not in condition (1 party on the Couturier and the Courtes NE 15/04)

- Col des Cristaux is in good condition, cramponning for the last 150m.

- The gullies are not formed, (not enough ice etc.)

- Cols d'Argentière/ Tour Noir/ Passon are OK.

- The Flèche Rousse ridge in good condition.

- The “Y” Couloir: bergschrund OK then a pitch to overcome the lower band, (ice on rock, 2 axes useful.)

- Aiguille d'Argentière by the Glacier du Milieu: good ski conditions up to the bergschrund, ski depot. then cramponning to the summit and back.   

- Col du Chardonnet: rock hard snow in the couloir on the Saleina side. More information in the OHM route book.

Talèfre Sector

Little change here, one can find the latest information in the hut blog.

Aiguille du Midi / Helbronner Sector

Due to the dry conditions there has not been much ice climbing, (Chéré and Contamine-Grisolle on the Triangle du Tacul, Gabarrou-Albinoni and Pas d'Agonie 1 have been done).

It is forbidden by a council order to enter the Glacier Rond area from 17th to 20^th April due to work there on a pylon.

The Valley Blanche, Brèche Puiseux and Capucin couloir are still being skied.   

The normal route on the Tacul was tracked on skis the 13/04 exitting by the Shoulder.  The old ladder has been repositioned in order to cross the impressive bergshrund.

The Cosmiques ridge is in condition for the moment.  The rockfall area before the abseil is delicate but has a fixed rope for security.  A 40m or 50m ripe suffices for the abseil. 

Pointes Lachenal are still bare ice.

The Mallory on the Aig du Midi N face is tracked in ascent.

Rochefort Ridge was done on 13/04 in good conditions.  The party turned back below the Aiguille due to snow on the slabs.

Mont Blanc

Approach to the Grands Mulets hut: The best option is probably to start from the Plan de l'Aiguille. (Rock hard snow in the Cosmiques couloir and Glacier Rond, also they are forbidden until 19/04, see above).   Take the lower path, (as shown on the IGN map) to cross the Jonction. The higher path leads to an impassable crevasse. 

Higher up conditions remain complicated. The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is bare ice for 250m, (foresee 2 axes + ice screws for 50m pitches.). This makes progress very slow and has been enough to deter most parties attempting this way to the summit.

A party climbed Mont Maudit in bad conditions (“rock hard snow”) but no further information.

The remaining way to summit Mont Blanc is to ascend by the Plateaux, (good track keeping as far left as possible.)  This route is exposed to serac fall.  The decision to risk it or not is entirely up to the individual!

The N face is not in condition for the moment, ski depot at the Vallot.

Two skiers descended by the Corridor, (a rope was used to pass an ice cliff and at the bergschrund).

It is best to descend by the Para, (30mins of walking at the end to the tunnel) or to traverse to the Plan station. It is not advisable to descend the Bossons glacier; bad conditions in the gully above the Plateau des Pyramides on the left bank, rotten snow on the right bank, (15/20 minutes of walking.)

Miage Sector

Little has changed since the last update.

For the hut approach one needs to carry the skis as far as Nant du Tour, (circa 1 hour).

In general, very good conditions for the Miage traverse, (no ice) and for the descent of the Armancette (15 min of walking above the lake then skiing again down to 1700m.)

Mont Tondu is in good condition.

SW Couloir of the Aiguille de la Bérangère has been skied in good conditions.

There has been nobody on the N faces, which are bare ice, the foehn wind of 15/04 having stripped away the snow.

Hiking

It is necessary to remain at the lower altitudes.  Higher up there is a serious risk of falling.

Some examples of feasible hikes are:

- Lac Vert from La Côte (Servoz)

- Chailloux chalet from Le Bettey

- Petit Balcon Sud and the Floria chalet

- Chapeau chalet

- Loriaz chalets from Couteray, Vallorcine, (higher up snowshoes useful.)   

Due to work replacing the Flegere cable car, access to this sector, including the way to Lac Blanc, is blocked this year.  Lac Blanc remains accessible from the Col des Montets.  The paths leading up to Flégère have been closed by order of the council.

The Curala via ferrata (Plateau d’Assy) opened on the 15th April. The Gorges de Bonnant (Saint Gervais) opened on the 10/04, starting from the 2^nd escape, known as "Maurice Lenoir".

Report 11th April 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 12 April 2019 07:34

Tour / Trient Sector

The descents down to Trient are in good condition (the snow being firstly frozen then crusty then spring snow). It is possible to ski all the way to the ski du fond pistes, (then a further 15 minutes of walking to reach the village).

The Col du Pissoir is good (no ice), as is the Col Supérieur du Tour (hard snow but a good track, carrying the skis for the last 5m.)  The Col du Midi des Grands was very dry but should have improved with the latest snowfall.

No information for the normal route on the Aiiguille du Tour which should now be in good condition. The lower part of the Table Couloir is very dry, (a rocky narrow passage of 15/20m) but the upper part has plenty of snow, feasible in ascent.

It is still possible to ski all the way down to La Tour.

Argentière Sector (5 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday).

Average amount of snow for the time of year, (crusty).

On the Aiguille d’Argentière, the Glacier du Milieu (the top slope not skiable in descent), and the Y Couloir, (bergschrund and lower band OK) are being done

Nobody on the N faces, except for the Col des Cristaux.

Ski tourers on all the usual cols, (Passon, Chardonnet, Tour Noir, Argentière).

The return by the true left bank of the Argentière glacier remains good.

Talèfre Sector

To reach the Couvercle hut, it is better to use the central couloir, (one passage to walk,) rather than the Pierre à Béranger (feasible if very early.)

There has been nobody on the Whymper since the last snowfall, (party foreseen for Friday12/04). The way across the bergschrund, which had collapsed, looks to have filled in again and is should go on the true right.  

The south facing slopes are in good condition, (e.g. col des Droites).  The snow is crustier on other aspects.

The Pointe Isabelle is in condition this year (glacier OK, skin up to the shoulder then mixed climbing up the ridge to the summit.)

Aiguille du Midi Sector (4 cm of fresh snow this morning, Thursday)

The Valley Blanche is still in reasonably good condition Some treacherous crevasses in the cwm before the Requin hut and on the traverse to the Salle à Manger. The snow quality is variable, with the crusty snow on the slopes exposed to the sun, (e.g. Grand, Moyen & Petit Envers). The classic route has better conditions.

The Cosmiques couloir (60m abseil then hard snow for 200 m) and the Rond glacier (rope useful at the start) are being done daily, (30 minutes of walking from the old station passing by La Para). 

The Cosmiques Ridge is now tracked. The left summit of the Pointe Lachenal is also being done, (no further information.)

The Chéré couloir is popular, though fairly dry and more technical than usual, (black ice above the bergschrund, pitch 2 dry: gravel, rock.)  The same is true for the Modica Noury and Gabarrou Albinoni (some belay bolts have been replaced.)

For the moment, the normal route on the Tacul does not look to be in condition, (large bergschrund and threatening seracs.) 

Helbronner Sector

The traverses of the Aiguilles Marbrées and the Aiguille d'Entrêves are very popular

For the Tour Ronde, it is still necessary to go via the Col Freshfield. The Gervasutti couloir is being done. No news for the N face which looks to be feasible.

The rocks on the Dent du Géant are covered in snow. Before this last snowfall, the Aiguille de Rochefort was tracked and in good condition.   

Goulotte Valeria (Petit Capucin) was done on 10/04, conditions very dry!  

Mont Blanc by the Grands-Mulets

The glacier approach is well filled in. The Jonction goes by the lower track, (as shown on the IGN map.)

Mont Blanc was done on 09/04 by the Plateaux. Conditions on the N du Dôme ridge have improved but there is still ice just below a layer of fresh snow.  The Bosses ridge is OK, (avoiding the ice with short detours).  The N face has been skied on the true left, (good skiers only; 5m of ice in the funnel, rope useful).

Dômes de Miage Sector

Generally good conditions in this sector except for the N faces, (they are holding some snow but not yet enough to fully cover the ice.)   About 12cms of snow fell on Wednesday.

It is still possible to start skinning from Plan (30 minutes of walking then again for some short sections.) However, the snow is rapidly melting up as far as Nant du Tour.

Very good conditions for the Dômes de Miage traverse.  There are some, avoidable, ice sections to reach the ridge and on the descent to the Col de la Bérangère.  The ridge is snow.

Good skiing on the Armancette, walking for 15 minutes above the lake then possible to ski again almost to La Frasse.

Aiguilles Rouges

Pleasant ski touring on all the classics, (variable snow quality). Still possible to ski down the Berard valley all the way to Buet.  Some ski carrying is needed for Loriaz, Bel Oiseau and Pointe Ronde.

Grands Paradis

The recent snowfalls have improved conditions though the snow cover is still poor, expect to carry skis at the start.

Alan Pope

Details

Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Wednesday, 03 April 2019 16:17

We are saddened to receive news of the death of our member, Alan Pope.

Members are invited to send their tributes to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it. so that they can be posted on the website.

George Rhodes

Details

Parent Category: People in the news

Created: Wednesday, 03 April 2019 08:03

News has reached us of the death of our Longstanding member George Rhodes, who died aged 90 on 29th March.

The funeral was held at St Lawrence’s Church, Congleton Road, Biddulph on 12th April.

Members can add tributes by logging in to Alpinet or send them to This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Report 28 March 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Monday, 01 April 2019 08:09

As Spring arrives the snow is disappearing in the valley up to 1500m on the S slopes and 1200m on the N slopes. There is still plenty of snow in the mid altitudes. The snow quality varies with the aspect.  It is still possible to find some powder, (albeit rare,) in some N facing, wind protected pockets. On the other hand, the snow is likely to be very hard in the morning on those S facing slopes exposed to the wind.  The snow softens quickly with the sun and the large, daily range of temperatures at all altitudes.

The conditions are like those reported on 21st March, with the following extra information:

Valley Blanche
Still in generally good condition, though some treacherous crevasses are beginning to appear.  There snow is starting to disappear on the descent down to Chamonix meaning several ski carrying sections and a 30 minute walk at the end.  

Torino Sector
Parties on the Aig Entrèves et Marbrées traverses: overall good conditions.

Aiguilles Rouges
The Bérard valley still OK, (need to carry the skis at the little wooden walkway near the Cascade.)

The Loriaz hut shuts on Sunday evening 31 March.

Mont-Blanc

Grands Mulets route: The Grands Mulets hut is open. Good snow cover to reach the hut.  The north ridge of the Dôme is difficult (200 m of bare ice); needs to be pitched. Serac collapse risk at the level of the Petit Plateau.  Also take care of the seracs on the true right bank of the Grandes Montées (between the Petit et Grand Plateau). The N face is not appealing due to dry conditions and the effects of the strong winds this winter. The route being used for the summit is there and back via the col du Dôme. Steel crampons are strongly recommended. (ice below the Vallot) 

Goûter route: Some parties on this route, no further information.

3 Monts route:  The route does not look to be in condition and is not being done; impressive bergschrunds on the Tacul and Maudit.

Argentière Sector
The Bochard lift is still closed, (hopefully it will open next weekend.)

Glacier du Milieu: Near the summit take care, the ice is just below a thin snow cover.

The rock routes behind the hut are dry. 

Albert 1^er Sector
The hut opens this week, (no warden on Wednesday or Thursday.)

Couvercle Sector
The hut opens this weekend.

Leschaux Sector
Couloir SW de l'Eboulement (26/03): Crossing the bergschrund went OK but the party turned back because the couloir was not in condition for skiing., (narrow, icy).

Conscrits Sector
An hour of carrying the skis at the start of the hut approach. The traverse of the Dômes de Miage is overall in good condition.  There is a track on the ridge, but some short sections of ice require good crampons. The Armancette glacier is in condition, (the snow runs out just above the lake but then it is possible to ski again shortly afterwards, almost down to La Frasse). 
The Bérangère, Pain de Sucre, Col des Glaciers are being done.

The Drus (23/24/03)
N Face – Lesueur route: OK dry tooling – not much snow – start by the Alain Leninger route then the classic. Descend by the North Couloir on abalakovs and in-situ abseil points on the route.

Thank you to all those who posted their information in the online Route Book.

Report 21 March 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Friday, 22 March 2019 07:23

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 21/03/2019

The weather has improved this week allowing for an increase in activity in the mountains, especially ski touring.   In general, the snow cover is good up to 3500m, (with powder on the north facing slopes,).  Above this, conditions remain dry for both the mixed climbs and the high mountain routes e.g. Mont Blanc.

All the classic ski routes are tracked and in good condition.

Tour/Trient Sector

The climb up to the Col des Autannes and the descent to Trient is OK.

Col du Passon is tracked, with good conditions for the descent to Le Tour. The Albert 1er hut opens this weekend.

Argentière Sector

The N faces remain very dry. Due to the progressive melting of the Verte summit ice cap, the Couturier couloir is now threatened by a serac.  Also, there is a crevasse that is very difficult to cross. It has not been tracked and is not really to be recommended.  If attempted, then the “classic” exit straight up would appear to be the best option.

There has been no activity on the Droites or both the N face and NE of the Courtes. For the latter, the latest information is that the bergschrund is awkward but does go on the left, and the snow is rock hard on the upper part.

The Col des Cristaux was skied in good snow, (the top 60m being dry, need to abseil or down climb.)

A track on the SW couloir of the Amône, no further information.

The Cols d'Argentière and Tour Noir are in good condition. Take ski crampons as the snow is icy in some sections.  

Aiguille d'Argentière:  The “Y” couloir is in good condition, (bergschrund OK, lower band icy, snow all the way up the rest of the gully.)  Good conditions also for the normal route by the Glacier du Milieu, (good skiers are setting off from the summit.)

The Col du Chardonnet is tracked on the true right bank. There are 80m of abseils on the Saleina side, (a 50m rope suffices.)

Mer de Glace / Aiguille du Midi Sector

It is no longer feasible to exit in safety onto the Mer de Glace from the Pas de Chèvre.   

There has been no more information about the Whymper couloir since the good weather period last February but it looks to be feasible. The S facing classics in this area also look feasible.

Brèche Puiseux (50 m abseil), Couloir du Capucin (60 m abseil), Tacul Shoulder (30 m abseil) and Col du Tacul (there and back), are all been done regularly and are in very good condition.

Valley Blanche is generally in good condition. There is a short passage of ice to reach the start of the climb back up to the Mottets which needs care and a good skiing ability.  It is still possible to ski down to Chamonix with two short walking sections and then a final 15min walk. Care is needed to control one’s speed. 

The Glacier Rond (2x 15m abseils from the summit), Couloir des Cosmiques (60 m abseil then icy snow for 200m) are being done. It is possible to ski to the tunnel, either by the Para slope or the Combe des Glaciers.

The Laurence and Cosmiques ridges are tracked.  The traverse of the Pointes Lachenal not recommended; bare ice.

Some ropes have been on the Vent du Dragon and the Chéré Gully. Some of the other gullies appear to be feasible but are still very dry (e.g. Modica-Noury, Gabarrou-Albinoni.) This makes these routes harder than their given grades; take short screws and rock protection.

The Mallory on the N face of the Midi has been re-tracked, (still bare ice at the top)

The N ridge of the Dôme du Goûter is not in condition and is not thought to have been done this year.  There is a lot of ice and has a problematical bergschrund.  The descent by the Plateaux appears to be in good condition, (done in February.)

The Trappier couloir is being skied regularly.

Helbronner Sector

The main ski descents on the Italian side are in good condition, (Marbrées, Toule Glacier, Col d'Entrêves, Brenva). There is some walking in order to reach the base of the valley.

Conscrits Sector

The Tre la Tete hotel and the Conscits hut both opened on Wednesday.  The skis can be used after the Rocher des Plans, (30 to 45mins of walking first.)   The Mauvais Pas has a section of icy snow and there is also a risk of falling ice blocks.  It is recommended to pass it between 10am and noon.  The glacier has a good track. Some parties left today, (Thurdsay) for Mont Tondu and the Dômes de Miage, (hoping to descend the Armancette glacier).

The gorge leading to the to the Combe Blanche looks to be OK in descent.

Aiguilles Rouges

All the Aiguilles Rouges classics are in condition.  There is some walking above La Flatière for the Aiguillette des Houches. The Bérard valley is in good condition, (icy snow lower down on the path by the true right bank of the river).  It is possible to reach the Loriaz chalets from Couteray, either by ski or snow shoe. The Col de la Terrasse is tracked. The exit from the Très les Eaux valley is complicated, as a build up of snow prevents bypassing the stream bed at one point, meaning wet feet, (abseil).  Not much snow near Granges and what there is risks being heavy.

Snow Shoeing and walking paths

The valley paths are possible with good footwear and hiking poles.  Snow shoes are only useful once one has gained some height. Examples are:  using the Prarion lift for the loop there and the Vallorcine lift for the Aiguillette des Posettes.

Ice Climbing

It is still just possible to find some climbing on the true left bank of the Argentiere glacier or the Patri sector at Cogne.

No information for the beginner ice climbing areas.

Report 16th March 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Saturday, 16 March 2019 21:37

A quick update following the return of the sun this weekend.

The recent weather fronts brought with them not only snow but also strong winds.  This makes it very difficult to estimate the amount of new snow, (on average 50 to 80 cms above 1800/2000m). A small amount of snow fell at the valley level which has temporally improved conditions there. At mid and higher altitudes, the snow depth has been significantly increased but is not stable. The avalanche risk, both natural and provoked, has been high since Friday with numerous and large windslabs breaking away. Today, Saturday, the rapid rise in temperatures has resulted in the snow sliding off the sun affected slopes. Caution is needed over the coming days. BERA has put out a warning for this Sunday: “the snow pack remains treacherous at altitude”.

It is also difficult to assess the snow quality. Chamoniarde has not received many reports.  The snow has been compacted and affected by the wind and the variations in temperatures together with the sun this Saturday.  The snow conditions are very variable.  They are generally good on the northern slopes above 2000m but crusty below this. They are less good on slopes affected by the sun, as the snow has not yet transformed and therefore crusty and with slide/avalanche debris in places.

The Trapette ski tour track at Argentiere was reported to be good condition on Saturday.

For snow shoers, even though there was some fresh snow down to the valley floor, a better option is at altitude on the signposted tracks prepared by the Pistes and Paths service and the Company du Mont-Blanc. (https://www.ccpmb.fr/eau-air-nature-environnement/les-sentiers-de-randonnees/itineraires-raquette-a-neige/)   (http://www.skiplan.com/bulletin/bulletin.php?station=chamonix&region=alpes&pays=france&lang=en)

Following the recent weather, the conditions have completely changed.  Activity in the mountains is slowly picking up as of this weekend.  The forecast is for more clement for next week.  

Enjoy your outings, take care and let Chamoniarde know about them, (online at OBS-ALP , or the cahier de course, or by telephone, or a message on the Chamoniarde Facebook page.)  Thanks in advance.  

Alpine Club – February 2019 Winter Meet

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Thursday, 14 March 2019 09:36

Tatra Mountains - Poland

Following the success of the meet to the Polish Tatra Mountains, situated on the border with Slovakia, last year a second follow up visit was arranged.  Ten members attended. 

Up Close with Mike Kosterlitz

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Thursday, 07 March 2019 21:41

Interview by Glyn Hughes

Mike, could you start by telling us about your earliest climbing experiences.

When I turned up in Cambridge in 1962 I had done very little real climbing, but I was very keen to do more, and I had already discovered that I seemed to have some talent for it. I went on a meet to the Derbyshire gritstone as soon as I could, and, wearing my mountain boots (I had not heard of PAs at the time), I got up a few climbs. Shortly after that I fell about 25ft off a VS because the rubber on the toe of my boot was worn away, and I tore my ankle. The more experienced members of the CUMC (Nick Estcourt, Rupert Roschnik, etc) were not amused by this novice showing off. However I managed to show them that I was actually able to climb, and that I could be competitive with them. That winter I joined the Club’s Ben Nevis meet and got my first taste of ice climbing, which I also enjoyed. I think the reason that I was competitive with the best of them was that I was quite strong, and was able to keep my nerve on rock climbs. I reasoned that if other people had done it before me, even if I could not see how to do the next bit, it was obviously possible and there must be holds there, and so I should be able to do it too. I did not frighten easily, and my (flawed) reasoning worked, so I went up the grades quite quickly, and become one of the better climbers in the CUMC.

Report 5th March 2019

Details

Parent Category: News

Created: Tuesday, 05 March 2019 17:47

After a long period of good weather, two days of bad weather, (1st and 4th of March,) have resulted in some 40cms of new snow at 2000m.  Strong winds, (gale force at altitude,) have caused severe drifting, stripping away the snow in some areas and probably creating windslab conditions in others.  The amount of snow will vary depending on aspect and altitude.

There is not sufficient snow for snow shoeing below 1100m, north facing, 1400m south facing.  The signposted paths in the valley floor are, however, good for walking with the correct footwear and sticks.

Better weather this morning (5th) has seen the return of mountaineering in the range.