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Club News

2023 Piolets d'Or 'Significant Ascents' List Includes Routes by AC Members

2023 Piolets d'Or 'Significant Ascents' List Includes Routes by AC Members

Paul Ramsden acclimatising in the Jugal Himal. The line of his new route 'The Phantom Line' (1300m ED) is visible in the background
Photo: Tim Miller

The Piolets d'Or have released a list of what they consider to be "significant ascents" from 2022. Among the noted routes are several by Alpine Club members:

  • The first ascent of Gulmit Tower (5810m) by AC member Will Sim and Fabian Buhl.

  • The first ascent of the east summit of Barnaj II (6303m) by Tom Seccombe and AC members Callum Johnson and Matt Glenn.

  • The first ascent of Jugal Spire (6563m) by AC members Paul Ramsden and Tim Miller.

  • The first ascent of 'The Pace of Comfort' (950m, 5.10 A3+ M6 70°) on the north-west face of Kichatna Spire (2739m) by David Allfrey, Whit Magro and AC member Graham Zimmerman.

The complete list of ascents is available to view on the Piolets d'Or website.

This list, as the website makes clear, does not represent the nominees for this year's Piolets d'Or Awards, but rather it is a record of significant or innovative ascents climbed in alpine or capsule style during 2022.

The 2023 Piolets d'Or awardees will be announced in due course and will receive their awards at a special ceremony on 15 November in Briançon, France.

 

 

 

AC Peak Lectures Return for 2023/24

AC Peak Lectures Return for 2023/24

Having taken a pause at the height of the COVID-19 pandemic, our popular Peak District lectures have taken longer to return than we would have hoped. However, thanks to the hard work of AC vice-president Adéle Long, they are now back with a full schedule for the autumn and winter of 2023/24.

The lectures will take place once a month from October to March, either at The Sir William Hotel in Grindleford or Outside Café in Hathersage. The planned dates and speakers are below:

5 Oct : Charlene Gibson - Climbing Cho Oyu
9 Nov: Catherine Moorehead - In conversation with Jeremy Windsor about her biography of Doug Scott.
7 Dec: Simon Richardson - Looking Around New Corners in the Alps and Canada
11 Jan: Mick Fowler - Chombu: 'The one that got away'
8 Feb: Kasia Piatek - An Expedition to Sikkim
14 March: Ronnie Legg - Ama Dablam by an Average Josephine

Some of the venues are yet to be confirmed, but will be added to the listings in due course. The first two lectures will take place at The Sir William in Grindleford.

We hope to see you there!

 

 

 

2023 AGM & Annual Dinner

Date: Saturday 25 November 2023

By popular request of members, we are returning to The Castle Green Hotel, Kendal, LA9 6RG. The hotel is 2.75 miles from Oxenholme station.

The order of events is:

15:00  AGM in the Kendal Suite.

16:30 - 17:30  Presentations on the 2023 Photograph competition and on the Development of the Aspirants’ Meet 2015 – 2023.

18:30  Cash bar open in the Function Suite (where the dinner is taking place. Cumbria's finest real ales will be available.

19:30  Dinner.

 

Our principal guest at the dinner is Fay Manners who is one of Britain's finest young alpinists. In 2022 she made the first female ascent of the Phantom Direct route on the south face of the Grandes Jorasses. Fay has climbed the North Face of the Eiger, American Direct of the Dru and the Walker Spur, and this year climbed difficult new routes in Norway, the Karakorum and Greenland.

 

Fay climbing in Pakistan's Trango Group - Photo: Hermanos Pou

 

Tickets for the three course dinner are £40.00 per person, reduced to £25.00 for those under the age of 40 on the date of the dinner.

I have been able to negotiate favourable B&B room rates as follows: £145 for a double/twin room for one night, and £245 for two nights. £115 for a single room for one night, £210 for two nights.  These discounted rates will be held until the end of October, so you are encouraged to book soon. Call 01539 734000 and quote Alpine Club.

Members can now buy dinner tickets for themselves and their guests, and book bunkhouse accommodation, paying in either of the following ways:

  • By cheque, made payable to Alpine Club, and sent in the post to the Honorary Secretary at 55 Charlotte Road, London EC2A 3QF

  • Or online by logging into the AC website, navigating to the 'Events' tab and selecting 'AGM & Dinner Booking' from the drop-down menu.

When applying for tickets, please specify any dietary requirements.

Tickets will be posted to members in the two weeks before the event. 

Further details of the event will be circulated in due course on the website, in our next Newsletter and by Alpinet.

 

- William Newsom, Dinner Organiser

 

 

 

2023 Boardman Tasker Award Shortlist Announced

2023 Boardman Tasker Award Shortlist Announced

The judges of the Boardman Tasker Award for Mountain Literature have announced the shortlist for this year's competition.

© Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust

The shortlisted titles are: Sherpa by Pradeep Bashyal and Ankit Babu Adhikari, Unraveled by Katie Brown, The Hidden Fires by Merryn Glover, British Mountaineers by Faye Latham and Closer to the Edge by Alpine Club member Leo Houlding.

The Boardman Tasker Award, now in its 40th year, was set up in memory of Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker who were tragically lost while climbing on the north east ridge of Mount Everest in 1982. It continues its efforts to pomote mountain literature through this annual award and associated monetary prize. 

The winner(s) will be announced on 17 November as part of an event with the shortlisted authors at Kendal Mountain Festival.