Report 5th March 2019

After a long period of good weather, two days of bad weather, (1st and 4th of March,) have resulted in some 40cms of new snow at 2000m.  Strong winds, (gale force at altitude,) have caused severe drifting, stripping away the snow in some areas and probably creating windslab conditions in others.  The amount of snow will vary depending on aspect and altitude.

There is not sufficient snow for snow shoeing below 1100m, north facing, 1400m south facing.  The signposted paths in the valley floor are, however, good for walking with the correct footwear and sticks.

Better weather this morning (5th) has seen the return of mountaineering in the range.

Report 18th February 2019

MOUNTAIN CONDITIONS 18/02/2019

Some more information following the weekend: 

The re-freezing is in places limited, areas in the sun are becoming very warm during the day. Avoid being caught out later in the day when there is a significant risk of (wet snow) avalanches. Though the weather is more like April, it is still only February and too early for many of the high-altitude routes, most of which are still dry.

Tour/Trient Sector: The Three Cols route is tracked; the descent either to Trient or Le Tour is in good condition, (as is the Col du Passon.)

Argentière Sector:  Col des Cristaux has been skied with good snow, (starting 40m below the col as above is dry).  The Couturier is tracked in ascent, conditions look to be OK. Courtes and Droites are still dry (NE also). The bergschrund for the “Y” on the Aiguille d'Argentière looks problematical, but no further information.  The Cols du Chardonnet, du Tour Noir and d'Argentière are tracked, (sometimes Spring snow, sometimes powder, depending on the aspect.) The return by the true left bank of the glacier to Lognan is good.

Talèfre Sector:  Very average conditions for the “Y” on the Aiguille Verte, (lower band in bad condition, more information in the cahier de course). On the other hand, the Whymper is in good condition, (the bergschrund goes on the left ascending, couloir completely on snow, softish, allowing step kicking.)  The central couloir gives the best exit, (right couloir has ice, Pierre à Béranger couloir has avalanche snowballs.)

Géant / Helbronner Sector:  Aiguille du Midi Ridge: Crampons essential, rope recommended.  Note, one needs to descend a little further than usual, to the second flat area, as the first step is bare ice.

Good conditions for the Valley Blanche, the descent from les Mottets is beginning to suffer but still OK. Brèche Puiseux is very popular, (50 m abseil), likewise the Capucin couloir (60 m abseil) and the Aiguillette du Tacul. Spring conditions on the Italian side (Marbrées, Toule: hand rail to get to the stairs, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva.)  Need to be there at the right time of day to get the best ski conditions.

The Mallory on the Aiguille du Midi is tracked in ascent.  The rock fall at the end of last summer is causing some problems on the Cosmiques Ridge, (there is an unstable section if it is not frozen, 2 abseils, 50m rope suffices.)   

Grands-Mulets: N Ridge is not in condition. Some parties have skinned up by the Plateaux, (fragile snow bridges on the slope beneath the Small Plateau,) and then the ridge to the Vallot hut, (rock hard snow on the Bosses ridge, good snow on the descent.)

Tête Rousse Sector:  Trappier Couloir in good condition, with the ascent via the Rognes. Désert de Pierre Ronde is tracked. A roped party has ascended Mont Blanc from Bellevue, without snow shoes, must have been a struggle!

Aiguilles Rouges : ski touring just about everywhere, (descent to Valloricine, Buet and Plaine Joux OK.)  Be aware of the avalanche risk on slopes exposed to the sun and the possibility of cornices collapsing.

Ice Climbing: Still a lot to go at, if not exposed to the sun, (Notre Dame de la Gorge, Left bank of the Argentière glacier, Pétoudes.) It is probably over for the Argentière Right bank. The Barre des Charcotains is finished. Still plenty to do at Cogne.

Report 15 February 2019

Mountain Conditions  15/02/2019

Here is the update for this week of beautiful weather.

The amount of snow (about 30 to 40 cm above 2000m). deposited during the bad weather last weekend is difficult to estimate because of the accompanying strong winds. Spring weather has arrived for the first week of the half term holidays.  The freezing level is climbing very high during the day, (above 3000m.)  As you may guess, this heat can cause wet snow slides/avalanches, especially on the sunny slopes.  The snow quality is variable, frozen and often affected by the wind on the north facing slopes, frequently crusty where exposed to the sun.  (Further transformation is needed before it becomes ideal for skiing.)

Ski touring remains the most popular activity for this winter.  Conditions are generally good, though it is important not to be too late in the day.  There is snow right down to the valley floor and the mid-mountain classics are popular.  For example: at Contamines (Monts Jovets, Cols de Fenêtre/Cicle/Chasseurs), at Plaine Joux (Moëde Anterne, Pointe Noire de Pormenaz), in the Aiguilles Rouges (all the routes), at Vallorcine (Buet, Loriaz, Col de la Terrasse), and in the neighbouring Switzerland (Bel Oiseau, Carraye, Pointe Ronde).

This good weather has also meant the start of the ski mountaineering season.  The “Z” track from the Aiguille du Midi is open but very icy, (crampons essential).  The Valley Blanche is basically in good condition and it is possible to ski down to Chamonix.  The way up to the Brèche Puiseux is tracked, as is the descent to the Mont Mallet glacier (icy snow in the exit couloir). On the Italian side, all the classics are tracked (Marbrés,Toule, Col d'Entrèves, Brenva) but respect the time of day. There is skiing has also in the Argentiere sector, (the hut opens today, Friday), e.g. Col des Grands Montets, traverse of the Col du Passon, Three Cols, Col du Tour Noir and Argentière are all tracked.  However, the is no information concerning the north faces, which look to be very dry. There has been activity in the Trient sector, (e.g. Glacier des Grands), the return is good.

Conditions for ice climbing are changing rapidly with this warm weather.  It is recommended to avoid areas that catch the sun, (e.g. right bank of Argentière)). Even in shaded areas be very careful to check the conditions.

Still little or no information about winter mountaineering and the mixed routes.  The Cosmiques Ridge is being done regularly. 

Report 8th February 2019

Mountain Conditions 08/02/2019

An update for this weekend and the start of the school holidays.  The conditions are becoming favourable for winter sports.  Unsettled weather this weekend but sunshine is forecast for next week.

For skiers, (piste, hors-piste and touring), the snow is overall good.  However, there remains an important risk of avalanche which will become difficult to spot with the snowfall and wind foreseen for this weekend.  Many professionals have observed avalanche activity in areas not usually affected, take care! 

During this holiday period there will be a lot more skiers on the pistes, adapt your speed accordingly!

For ski-tourers, conditions are mainly good, though some rocks are exposed here and there.  There is a cornice threatening the true right bank of the ENSA couloir, (notably if there is a wind or a warm period.)

The Valley Blanche is generally in good condition.  The ridge is equipped with rope handrails and stakes but the « Z » is not tracked yet.  There are quite a few rocks on the Mer de Glace between the ice caves and the climb back up to Mottets. From Mottets the descent down to Chamonix is OK.

The classic ski tours remain popular, (Contamines valley, Aiguilles Rouges, Bel Oiseau / Col de la Forclaz sector etc.) Good conditions also higher up on the glaciers, (Brèche Puiseux, Argentière sector, Col du Passon etc.)

Generally good conditions also for ice climbing.

However, for the mixed routes, as has been the case for the last two years, conditions are very dry with little or no activity.

Enjoy the mountains safely and the Chamoniarde team look forward to hearing about your experiences on: https://www.chamoniarde.com/montagne/cahier-de-courses

Report 25th January 2019

The high pressure since the last update has resulted in stable but very cold weather.  The region was not affected by the bad weather elsewhere on Wednesday.  There has been a cold wind since Thursday, causing windslab in places and probably large snow drifts at altitude.

Ski touring and ice climbing remain the main activities for the moment.  The winter mountaineering season has not really started yet, the routes are still very dry. 

Ski touring: touring possibilities throughout the Mont Blanc range, (Aiguilles Rouges – Argentière sector - Requin sector – Col de la Forclaz – Loriaz sector …..) Possible to start skiing from 1000m, (cover initially poor, but good above 1500m.)  Take ski crampons because certain passages have been stripped down to hard ice/snow by the wind (ridges, cols.)

Ice climbing: Lots of activity last week in the following sectors: Trient (Pétoudes and Barre des Charcotins), Argentière (left and right banks) and Crèmerie.  A rope was seen on the Sainte Marie Viaduc icefall.  The lines looked to be formed at the Col des Montets (Barre du Chenavier) but no more information.  The Loriaz icefall looks to be well formed. In the Aosta valley, conditions remain unchanged from the last update, (19^th Jan).

Valley Blanche: the ridge is now partially equipped, with a rope on the crest, (very hard snow.)  The “Z” track is not yet in place.  The current conditions require a good level of ski ability.  The run down to Chamonix (via the Mottets,) remains OK.

With regards to the re-opening of the Plan Praz lift. this should open on Sunday 27^th January.  However, check the CMB site for the latest information as it might open already during the day on the Saturday.  It always remains possible to reach the Brevent ski area from the Flégère cable car.

Winter Hiking: the valley floor paths are icy, foresee using walking crampons.  The signposted snow shoe trails at mid-altitude, (prepared by the Mont Blanc Company) are proving popular as they have plenty of snow.  Those in the valley floor, (prepared by council, Communauté de communes,) have enough, albeit compacted, snow.