Overview

In September 2024, this exploratory expedition will seek a first ascent of one or more unclimbed 6000m peaks, in good alpine style, via a route of aesthetic and technical interest. The expedition will be open to Full Members of the Alpine Club, subject to a team selection process. The eventual expedition party will comprise a maximum of six members.

Several potential objectives above 6000m have been identified in a remote and little-explored valley in the Kashmir, with possible routes being identified at around Difficile (D) or below. The expedition will focus on being both exploratory in nature and climbing routes with technical interest.   

^{Alpine Club Kyrgyzstan Expedition 2021 – Alex Metcalfe}

^{Alpine Club Tajikistan Expedition 2022 – Alex Hale}

In-country logistics support and a staffed basecamp will be provided by Mountains Expert Pakistan. The expedition will fly from the UK to Islamabad before travelling overland by vehicle to a trailhead. Pack animals will then be used to reach basecamp, with the team being self-sufficient at ABC and above. Additional camps will be established as required. 

Accommodation in Islamabad will be a 3* hotel in twin rooms arranged through the in-country agenct. During overland travel the expedition will stay in 3* hostels in twin rooms or at local guesthouse or similar. Basecamp and ABC will be tented.

Preparation & Costs

The expedition will seek to arrange at least one UK training weekend (for team members residing in the UK) and one training week in the Alps, depending on availability. 

The personal contribution towards the total cost of the expedition is expected to be £1500 - £2000. This is based on recent expeditions to similar areas for a similar duration of time. Grant funding opportunities will be maximised, and costs kept reasonable wherever possible.

Required Experience & Applications

Members may not need to have previous expedition climbing experience but must be confident mountaineers with considerable summer and ideally winter Alpine experience. Other types of expedition experience (e.g. trekking) are also beneficial. Applicants must be confident to climb independently (i.e. not with a guide) in the Alps at AD+/D or above. Scottish winter experience and experience climbing outside the European Alps and at altitude is also highly beneficial. Overseas travel experience is essential.

The expedition will open for applications from 1 January 2024. Application forms and further information can be requested from Tom Davis-Merry at This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it..

Applicants are encouraged to apply as pairs who have already climbed together and wish to take part in the expedition as a climbing team. Applications from individuals are also welcome, however an individual applicant should then seek to meet, and ideally climb with, other applicants or confirmed expedition members.

Dates: September 2024 (Dates TBC)

Contact: Tom Davis-Merry – This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.